#Heelslayer: Glenmorangie 15 (Old Distillery Bottling, 15 Years, 43% ABV)

    This week's #Heelslayer dram comes from the distillery claiming "the tallest stills in Scotland" (I think I've heard that from others too, much like the 'oldest' distillery claims), Glenmorangie.  This is a rather special bottle though, as this comes from the era before the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennesy takeover in 2004.  This 15 year old bottle, served at 43% ABV hails from about the mid to late 1990's, and comes from a time when production was a little more detail oriented, and less factory produced whisky.  Still aged in the classic Bourbon-only style of Glenmorangie, this has long been a favorite of the both the collector and the GlenMo fan. Let's delve into the hell of this bottle and I'll tell you why.

• Colour:  Autumn gold with hints of amber.  There's no indication of colouring on the label so I'll assume it has some caramel in it, albeit rather light.

• Body:  An oily medium that wanes toward the thin side.  No mention of filtration type, but considering this stays crystal clear in a -30 car ride... it's pretty heavily chill-filtered.

• Nose:  Holy cow!  Vanilla city, pudding, white flowers and soft malt notes.  The rich malty backbone plays with hints of sweet corn and apricot cobbler.  Peaches, stone fruits and melted vanilla ice cream.  In the background there are subtle notes of jasmine and herbal green tea with a hazelnut twist.  The nose swims with so much vanilla, almost overpoweringly sweet, but so delicious.

• Palate:  Sweet cornbread, malt syrup and peach compote.  Sublime wood spice notes (fenugreek with hints of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg), drive the mid palate as oily malt notes lift the bottom.  Toasted oak and cream flourish here with subtle hints of lilac and more jasmine green tea again.  Towards the end Tellicherry black pepper, stone fruits and more herbal notes come forward as the sweet creaminess abates.  The malt shows great depth throughout the dram.

• Finish: Sweet creamy malt and deeply complex oak.  White flowers again provide highlights as does sweet black tea and some hints s of brine.  Vanilla oils, shortbread and hints of oak char.  Wood spices are diluted here, but still present and have picked up an almost cedar note.

• Empty Glass:  Peach Melba and more white tea this time.  There's a doughy middle note and some herb-ed liqueur and roasted malt.  The sweetness continues through the empty glass, with malted milk chocolate sweets and Applejack. 

     I actually noted in my notebook on two different tastings of this that 'I will miss this bottle when it's gone.'  It's like an improved-upon 10 year old Glenmorangie Original: oilier, heavier and with more wood presence but with all the rich vanilla sweetness that you've come to love.  I can't help but wonder why this was discontinued, and more importantly where the quality has gone.  This dram is hands down my favorite Glenmorangie of recent tastings, save some independent bottlings, and it bears to mind the quality shift of all the Glenmorangie offerings.

     With the recent limited releases like Tùsail, glimpses of this distillery's true character are still present, albeit now a manufactured façade.  I understand the same quality of barrels are no longer present (LVMH uses Jack Daniels and Heaven Hill primarily for the GlenMo10), and the quality of engineered barley is now very different from years past.  I think that whisky, like comedy, should come naturally, and cannot be forced.  Stepping off my soapbox; keep your stick on the ice and the ice out of your glass.

LCBO Vintages – Release for June 11/2011

Welly well well my faithful drogues.... (Yeah, that's a Clockwork Orange reference), have I got news for you.  A little email arrived on my shoulder a week or so back from Okanagan Spirits, notifying me that Taboo Absinthe (LCBO SKU #162099) is back in stock.  I am a huge fan of absinthe since first taste.  It's a fantastic spirit that hold a dear place in the heart of many of the great writers and painters of the modern age.  Want to try something from distilled in the traditional French method?  Lucid Absinthe is also recently available from the LCBO (SKU #225938)

Onto bigger and better things!  I missed my deadline (thank procrastination!), and am now posting this after the fact, but am pleased to present the newest spirit release from the LCBO.  Actually, I take that back. Pleased is too good, appalled at the highway robbery that the LCBO get away with for premium spirits.  Without further adieu, the lineup.

Get Dad something special this year with 2 fine showings in the world of premium Scotch.  Glenfiddich 21 Year old and The Macallan 25 Year old Sherry Cask.

The Glenfiddich 21 was my first major indulgence at the LCBO.  It's a rich and sweet single malt.  Featuring wonderful creaminess and rich malt, vanilla and caramels, with a distinct rum and banana leaf notes in the finish.  Very very good stuff!  I'm a little sad to only see a 40% label on this bottle, but I'll excuse it, and there is not statement of colour on the label. I'm willing to allow this to go as Glenfiddich is the most commonly drank single malt and one of the most awarded single malts on the face of the planet.   Someday I'd like to see no colour and 46%, but these seem to be pipe dreams in the world of big Whisky.  The LCBO has this priced at $164.95 (LCBO SKU #981381), which is a bit steep, but comparatively its a fantastic dram for that special occasion.  I'd defiantly suggest that you grab a bottle of this as it really is a special malt and a relatively well priced for a bottle of this age.  Take that overtime shift or spoil your dad and thank him for putting up with you.

The second offering is a real cracker!  The Macallan 25 Year old Sherry Oak Single malt.  Take that sentence in a moment, and let that image roll around in your head.  This is a richer than life malt with a heavy sherry influence and wonderful honey, almond and creme caramel overtones.  This is real connoisseur's territory now, especially with the criminal pricing of the LCBO.  This is where I'm freely allowed to rant about a government controlled monopoly on alcohol.  The LCBO has graciously allowed you to procure this bottle at the measly sum of $769.95 (LCBO SKU #179150).  Nope, that's no typo!  That's just shy of $800 bucks!  Now I'm not a rich billionaire or a lucky recipient of a trust fund, and I'd like to think I have good money sense; but even if I was, that's a hard pill to swallow.  I know that this bottle is a worth indulgence for the real collector or serious drinker, but pricing out of the hands of every one but the Bay St. fat-cats is unacceptable!  I know full well that this bottle routinely goes for about $200 less in the Calgary, and south of the border it goes for even less!  It boggle my mind how the bottle has now traveled 2700 Km further and is magically $200 lighter in the price tag!  Ranting aside, this is a fantastic representation of the Macallan!  This is a rich reddy-caramel colour with a heavy and heady nose of citrus, caramel, sherry and oak. The palate is divine with rich body full of dried fruits, honey and gentle smoke.  If you happen to have $800 dollars to spare, spend it on something else!  My suggestion is the Glenfarclas 21 year old $119.95 (LCBO SKU #315614)

All ranting aside, the LCBO is the only place to get  any kind of spirit in Ontario, and I'm sure that my ranting is a little hard on them.  I'd just like to see a fair pricing scheme for buyers/collectors.